Gers: The old roots of the new organic bread in Maurens

The essentials It is a story of friends that ends in a story of bread. A Gers farmer specially planted acres of old wheat for a baker friend in search of a lost flavor.

Adrien Aries and Jean-Luc Beauhaire are paramotoring together. The first is a farmer in Maurens, the second is a baker in Léguevin. “One day, Jean-Luc suggested growing an old wheat, Camp Rémy, a seed that has not been produced for decades.” No contract, no paper: the deal is done the old-fashioned way with a handshake. This wheat, Jean-Luc’s father, also a baker, used it.

Our Gersois must have discovered it in the Paris basin “by a little peasant poet who makes his bread on the farm!” From this meeting, which he describes as enriching, the Gers farmer, who is committed to sustainable agriculture, brought back two tons of wheat.

“Enough to sow 10 hectares for the Beauhaire house with 37 tons of production, but the year was very dry and the yield in the Gers mediocre.” It wasn’t easy at the beginning to adapt this variety, which corresponds to the Parisian region. “It’s an old seed, for a climate very different from ours, more humid. But in the end it held up very well!” Jean-Luc wanted to work the old way again.

The “MOF”, which employs 30 people and appreciates traditional production methods, has long thought about finding the good grinding, the best kneading, measuring the salt and sourdough, the ripening … “I wanted the flavors that to preserve the gastronomic and nutritional benefits of the grain. “

Old and modern

But the baker did not expect Adrien Ariès to answer him: “He immediately said yes without thinking! We were already friends, but he threw himself into it. Wheat without knowing whether I would take it.” “”

The wheat did not go very far: a mill in Rignac in Aveyron crushes the grains of Gers wheat with a stone mill. Tradition always. Jean-Luc remembers the test phases, the failures “and the successes that we could not reproduce!” Today he put this new bread on sale under the name Renaissance with great success.

For Adrien Ariès, this homecoming is also a way to begin his transition to organic. “This bread is also a way to sell my job and to show that we have a very technological farm like mine and can produce organically without neglecting quality and know-how. We can develop without losing ourselves deny.”